Histoire d'eau

Histoire d'eau DIARY - May 2008



To return to the previous screen ... click here .

Go to the the start of the last update ... CLICK HERE

2008: Tuesday April 29 to Monday May 12th.

Fontenoy Le Chateau: Monday 28/04/2008 to Thursday 01/05/2008:

Fontenoy-Le-Chateau - 2008. We had a good couple of days days stay here; it is a very picturesque place. The weather has picked up; stopped raining and even some very pleasant sunny patches, although it is still not what I would call anywhere near to warm yet. The weather has however given us a chance to do some long walks along the canal, again through spectacular forests and countryside.

While here I have also had a chance to do some small running repairs (e.g. unblocking the non-return valve for the shower pump, fixing the bathroom door latch, etc. - little jobs but good to get done and out of the way). Pete has planted some herbs into pots on deck. We now have a full complement of both flowers and herbs planted - just waiting for Mother Nature to do her bit now, and for there to be a flush of colours (I think She's also waiting for the better weather to come).

We took a taxi into Bain-les-Bain also and went to a nice place there for lunch. It was a €12 taxi ride and a pleasant way to spend the afternoon.

In France it is a tradition, for good luck (I think), to buy a posy of "Lilly of the Valley" on the first of May. On looking up the encyclopedia, I'm given to understand that: Lilly-of-the-Valley.

"The flower is also known as Our Lady's tears since, according to Christian legend, the tears Mary shed at the cross turned to Lilies of the Valley.

On May 1st, 1561, French King Charles IX of France received a lily of the valley as a lucky charm. He decided to offer a lily of the valley each year to the ladies of the court. At the beginning of the 20th century, it became custom in France on the 1st of May, to give a sprig of lily of the valley, a symbol of springtime. The government permits individuals and worker' organizations to sell them free of taxation. It is also traditional for the lady receiving the spray of lilly of valley to give a kiss in return."

I bought Pete two bunches, but needless to say, I didn't get a kiss...







Chamousey: Saturday 03/05/2008:

Chamousey - 2008. We stopped again this year in Chamousey, as we did in 2005 with Helen & Adrian, specifically to have a meal in the restaurant there; in "Le Calmosien".

Unfortunately we didn't arrive during a week-day, when they have a terrific "Market Lunch" - no choice, you get what the chef has bought at the market that day, but the meal is wonderful and is as cheap-as-chips. We went for dinner this time; a more elaborate affair, but still fantastic food.







Castors at work - 2008

Along the way we spotted a number of trees in the canal, forcing us to avoid their branches in the water. On closer inspection we could see that they had been cut down by "Castors" (Beavers), which leave the trees with a typical "sharpened-pencil" appearance.






The towns & villages of Epinal, Charmes and Richardmenil:
Sunday 04/05/2008 to Wednesday 07/05/2008:

Charmes 2008; the apparent migration south of the Dutch & Belgian vampervans. We have worked our way along the canal and the weather has been improving. Proof of this has been the number of Dutch campervans we have seen. Half of Holland and a good chunk of Belgium must own a campervan, and by my reckoning 90% of them have headed south for the summer and are parked along the canal. We pulled up in the little town of Charmes, and moored behind another peniche, at about 3:00pm. By 7:00pm the whole area next to us at the port was full of campervans.

The other end of the port was also lined with Dutch & Belgian cars, with a sprinkling of Germans and a single Frenchman. In Richardmanil - A traffic sign that I think hasn't been changed for a while - 2008.

In the village of Richardmenil, which is a smallish village, we came across a road sign that I don't think has been updates for a while. Note: the motorcycle rider has a leather hat and the car has detatched headlights - possibly paraffin lit, and I'm sure the wheels would have spokes if you could see the car in profile).






Nancy: Thursday 08/05/2008 to Tuesday 13/05/2008: Nancy - 2008.

Well, we are back again in Nancy; one of our favourite stops in France. The town has a wonderful old square; "Place Stanislas", which was the royal residence in the 1700's of the King of Poland, who was also the "Duc of Lorraine & Bar".

As you can see, we are moored up again next to one of those 'reserved for Australians' signs.

While here we have caught up with some friends we met a couple of years ago - Rod & Anne from the boat "Harbinger". They have been wintering here in Nancy for the last two years. At the moment their daughter, Anaherau, is visiting and we all got together for dinner on Monday night.

We've also managed to go to the local market a couple of times and visit "Place Stanislas" for a drink or two.

Nancy - 2008: The Market. Nancy - 2008: The Market. Nancy - 2008 - Place-Stanislas.














2008: Tuesday May 13 to Saturday May 31st.

Enroute to Saverne: Tuesday 13/05/2008 to Monday 19/05/2008:

Canal de la Marne au Rhine This section of the "Canal de la Marne au Rhine" is not only very pretty but also contains some interesting features such as tunnels, some very deep locks and an inclined plane lift (more on this later).

Each lock in this section was once operated by a lock-keeper who lived at the lock-house adjacent to his lock. In the one hundred kilometer stretch from Nancy to Strasbourg alone there are thirty-odd locks. When you consider there are over 8,000 kilometers of canals in France this was one big labour cost. Today most sections are either automated or are planned to be automated. Unfortunately the VNF has not settled on a single method of automation. In this particular section the use the "TV remote control" method (as we have dubbed it).







As you approach the lock you come across a "Signal Receiving Box"... Operating the flight of automated locks between Nancy and Strasbourg.


Operating the flight of automated locks between Nancy and Strasbourg.




Then taking the "TV remote control", provided by the VNF (who run the canal system in France), you point and click...














This turns the indicator light at the lock from 'red' to 'red & green', (indicating the lock is preparing for you), and then from 'red & green' to 'green' only, (indicating you can enter the lock). Operating the flight of automated locks between Nancy and Strasbourg. Operating the flight of automated locks between Nancy and Strasbourg. Operating the flight of automated locks between Nancy and Strasbourg.


















On entering you tie up and lift the Blue bar at the lock to confirm you are ready for the lock gates to close and for the water level to change - rise or lower, depending whether you are travelling up-stream or down-stream. When the water level has changed the far-end gates to open for you to exit. Operating the flight of autometed locks between Nancy and Strasbourg.


















This is the general procedure from lock to lock, until you come across the exceptionally large locks, like the one at Rechicourt-le-Chateau. This lock is 15.3 meters high and is operated by a man from the VNF. Operating the large lock between at Rechicourt-le-Chateau. Operating the large lock between at Rechicourt-le-Chateau. Operating the large lock between at Rechicourt-le-Chateau.


















Following this large lock there is 30kms of canal then two tunnels followed by an "Inclined Plane Lock" at St. Louis. This lock is quite unique. It raises or lowers you 54 metres in what can best be described as a giant bath tub. You drive in, it lowers you, you drive out; 50 metres lower down. Operating the Inclined Planelock at St. Louis. Operating the Inclined Planelock at St. Louis. Operating the Inclined Planelock at St. Louis.















Saverne: Monday 19/05/2008:

One thing we have noticed in this part of France is the strong German influence there is here. The local language of Alsatian is a mixture of German, French, English, Hebrew and Yiddish. The architecture is also similar to that which you'd find in southern Germany; not surprising I suppose, given the this area of Alsace-Lorraine has swapped between French & German rule since 1641 when Louis XIV conquered it.

(For those interested it became German again in 1871 (the Franco-Prussian War), French again in 1918 (after WWI), German again in 1939 (at the start of WWII), and French again in 1945 (at the end of WWII). Saverne - 2008. Saverne - 2008.



















Enroute to Strasbourg: Tuesday 20/05/2008 to Monday 26/05/2008:

Strasbourg - 2008. Strasbourg is another great town to visit in this area. We hired a car and left the boat in a wild mooring in the Brumath forest, while we visited a number of towns in the area including Colmar, Riquewihr, Turckheim, Kaysersberg, Colmar - 2008.and Ribeauville. We also took a quick trip into Germany and had lunch in Baden Baden (We'd visited there a couple of times before, when we were living in the Netherlands in the late 80's, so it was good to go back and re-visit.)









After a great stay in the area we headed back to Saverne. Along the way we saw a couple of cyclists sporting Australian flags on their bikes (actually, they saw us first and waited for us at the next lock). Anyway, one thing led to another and they decided to put their bikes onboard and travel a few locks with us. They then decided to travel with us to the end of the day.Eventually we invited them for dinner and they stayed overnight - leaving on their bikes again first thing next morning. We really enjoyed their company for the night. Ben had been working in Ireland and Mac in England over the winter after cycling for a few months last year. They started their trip this year from Switzerland, across to the east coast of France, then down through Provence, Italy and I think Coatia - averaging about 100kms per day. Strasbourg - 2008.

The last we heard from the boys was by email a few days later. Ben posted the following ...

"Unfortunately the incredible cycle path leading west from Strasbourg along the canal stopped soon after we left Steve and Peta, depositing us at the base of a huge hill, in sweltering (est.)30 degree heat! None the less we carried on and have spent the last few days zigzagging the country-side, always on a bearing between NW and SW, bathing in what-ever flowing water we can find, stopping to ask the locals for directions in our best French and generally in some state of delerium, be it from hunger, thirst or just exhaustion!

I must finish with some sad news, and that is the death of my beloved Koga-Miyata (this is the brand of Ben's bike ... a very expensive touring bike, which he nick-named "Koga"). Yesterday after a fierce battle with a 15 degree, mudslide-esque incline, she succumbed to her injuries (a cracked frame) and is no more. She will live forever in my heart, having carried me (no small feat in itself) through 5,500km of the toughest roads in Europe, forever rallying to the cry "The Koga LOVES it!" So tomorrow we carry the Kogas onto the train and head for Paris, where Koga-Miyata have arranged for a new frame to be shipped, ready for assembly on Wednesday. Long live the Koga."

Hopefully we'll here more as the guys re-equip in Paris.

Saverne: Tuesday 27/05/2008 to Thursday 29/05/2008: Storks nesting on the roof-tops - 2008.

After the cyclists left we headed into Saverne, where Jean and Eric came to visit us. We had a good couple of days touring with them (they came by car; having left their boat "Foreign Affair" in St Jean-de-Losne).

We drove with Jean & Eric down to Riquewihr and had lunch and then to Ribeauville, where we walked around for the afternoon. Saverne - 2008; with Jean & Eric.

Apart from being very old, and very beautiful, the area is noted for its Stork population, which you can see nesting this time of year in the high nesting places provided. I believe that the birds were almost extinct a few years ago, getting down in numbers to just a couple of breeding pairs; but now, thanks to some staunch conservation work, they are back to a reasonable population size.

On the way back we did some wine tasting at a local Alsatian winery, and bought some supplies of very reasonable Reisling and Alsacean Cremant.

When we got back to Saverne we met up with Peter & Sharron (who will be travelling with us for the next week) and with Trevor & Bernadette (who we had met before when they visited Australia during the Rugby World Cup).

On thing led to another and, along with Michel and his wife, (the French couple who live permanently in the port on the boat moored next to us), and another Frenchman (who also lives on a boat in the port and is a captain in the 'Port Autonome de Strasbourg'), we had evening drinks onboard.




Lutzelbourg to Einville: Friday 30/05/2008 to Thursday 05/06/2008: Saverne - 2008; with Peter & Sharron. Saverne - 2008; with Peter & Sharron.

After Eric & Jean left, Peter & Sharron returned to travel with us from Saverne to Lutzelbourg, then down the "Canal De le Marne au Rhin" stopping at a number of small villages with unpronounceable names like "Xouaxange", and "Xures", and on to "Einville-au-Jard".

The canal in this section is pretty, even though the villages are a little sparse. As I think I mentioned earlier, all the villages in this area have a real 'German feel' to them, at least as you leave Strasbourg and head west. It's around this part of the canal that the French feel comes back.

Although to our surprise, when a couple of weeks ago on our way up we visited Nidderville, a small town along this section of the canal, we couldn't find any one in the Base Nautique (i.e. the port) who could speak either French or English. It was a hire boat base that caters mostly for Germans, but we would have thought the guys running it, who are living in France, would be able to speak at least French as a second language.

Little things like this still surprise me. (Not that we will be going back to that port anytime soon - they charge €1.10 per metre length of your boat per night just to stay at the quay there. For us at 27 metres, we'd have to pay €29.70 per night. That's about A$50.00 per night, when the normal going rate at ports which do charge is around A$5.00 at the cheap places, and around A$15.00 at the most expensive - and these include water and electricity. Average for us this year has been around €6 or A$10 per night at paying ports (some ports are free). Also, the guys at Nidderville wanted extra if you used water and extra again if you used electricity).

Peter trailed his car so we took the push-bikes each day and rode back to pick it up. This is normally no problem, as long as the path along the canal is in good order. However one small point I overlooked was that, along this particular part of the canal we have to go onto the "Inclined Plane Lock".
Operating the Inclined Planelock at St. Louis.

As I explained earlier in the text, this lock at Saint Louis is quite unique (at least to us).

The concept is just as simple going up:

  1. You drive the boat into the lock, and they close the lock gate behind you.
  2. The whole lock then ascends about 54 metres up an inclined hill.
  3. At the top they open the gates in front of the boat and you drive out at the top of the hill.

Simple.



After a week of enjoyable cruising, and the odd glass of Champagne, Peter & Sharron left us at Einville. I should mention that they picked up for us a dozen and a half bottles of Champagne which they had purchased for us from a small producer they had visited in Champagne on their way through - from a place called ... (believe it or not) "Bouzy".










You can click here to go directly to the June 2008 web page ... click here .






Back to the Top... CLICK HERE